Defining the “taste” of Joburg

Now in its third year, the organisers of the Taste of Joburg Festival promise that this year’s show will be the biggest and best show to date.

Bringing together 16 of the city’s most acclaimed restaurants and carefully-selected exhibitors; the show is expecting to draw up to 18,000 attendees, all of whom share a common passion for food and flavour exploration.

“The Taste of Joburg Festival is a great outing,” says Justine Drake, festival director and TV chef.

“Where else in Johannesburg are you able to go to a single amazing outdoor venue – in this case, Montecasino’s Outdoor Events Area – and sample dishes prepared by the top chefs in the city for a fraction of the cost of sitting down in a restaurant.

“Combined with the festival atmosphere, displays, workshops, various attractions and exhibitors that we have secured, the Taste of Joburg Festival promises to wow visitors like never before,” Drake says.

The “taste” of Joburg

The festival organisers decided to do something a little different this year in order to determine a theme for the event. Although the festival is called “Taste of Joburg”, they wanted to find out what the chefs actually thought the “taste” of Joburg was.

The festival organisers asked each of the 16 chefs who will be featured at the event to select an ingredient that best describes the essence of Joburg. And needless to say, the results were very interesting:

• Tom Hughes (The Attic) – Chervil (flat-leaf parsley). “This little known and woefully underused herb is a regular feature on the Attic menu. There are so many fantastic ingredients that have fallen out of fashion and favour and our resolution to juxtapose the best of old and new, classic and fashionable, vintage and contemporary is at the very heart of our restaurant.”
• Raymond Rundle (The Dining Room at The Grace) – Amarula. “A truly African reflection and something that is strong on our menu.”
• Zane Beer (Fino Bar & Restaurant) – Saffron. “My main reason for selecting Saffron, is that it is probably the one spice that’s sums up Spanish Cuisine. On a symbolic level, it is no more different than the Gold from our beautiful city – Johannesburg. They both have a golden-yellow hue, both extremely valuable, both were/are used as security during times of war or as a valuable trade commodity. Gold is now what Saffron was in the middle ages.”
• Zahra Karmali (Karma Restaurant) – Turmeric. “Traditionally called Indian saffron, Turmeric is the bright yellow of the spice rainbow & the closest colour to gold – which makes Joburg so famous.  Although it has been used throughout history as a condiment, healing remedy and textile dye, it is a spice prized more for its colour than its flavour.  For Karma, it is the unsung hero of the spice rack as it is the spice which unlocks the inner flavours of the ingredients in the curry.”
• Ciro Molinaro (La Cucina Di Ciro) – Lemon. “My favourite herb at this moment is the lemon – and it is classified as a herb. The fragrant aroma of a fresh lemon makes your mouth water. When added to a dish it actually enhances the flavour of the food you are preparing. There is nothing wasted on the lemon tree, from the leaves to the flesh to the juice to the skin. For me a great all-rounder – great for puddings , marinating fish and meat , in sauces and vinaigrettes, great in a curry etc. A lemon is just like Joburg in a way. So much to do, so much to see and something for everyone. The perfect all-rounder.”
• Pino Donazella (La Scala) – Gorgonzola Cheese. “This cheese is a characteristic soft , creamy Italian  cheese , strong in flavour but with a wide cooking application. From plain toasted Italian bread, through whole nut salad with Gorgonzola, to the four cheese pasta and a brandy and Gorgonzola chicken breast. It’s a memorable ingredient, just like Joburg is a memorable place.”
• Chantel Dartnall & Izanne Mocke (Restaurant Mosaic at The Orient) – Day Lilies. “Day Lilies filled with ratatouille have almost become synonymous with Restaurant Mosaic. A beautiful and flavoursome dish that is as beautiful and mixed with colour as our great city.”
• Andrew Atkinson (Piccolo Mondo) – Biltong. “Every ‘Joburger’ loves biltong and has since become a large part of our heritage. From nibbling on it informally while socialising to gourmet cuisine, this versatile ingredient is easily accessible and delicious in any form.”
• Dario de Angeli (Polo Bar at The Westcliff) – Quinoa. “A staple grain that provides good sustenance, but it’s not that widely known so it has an element of exclusivity – but when eaten, still a simple grain. This is food in JHB – stick to basic good food, give it a slightly exciting twist, but at the end it’s just simple good food that provides value and a full stomach.”
• Dino Fagas (Prosopa) – Star Anise. “Not a widely known spice as it is used in Indian, Malay and Chinese cooking, but I love it because it has the characteristics of aniseed (with deeper, richer & more complex aromas) which is also the flavours component of ouzo, the traditional Greek drink which I use a lot in our restaurant cooking.”
• Paulo Santo (Ristorante Ritrovo) – Olive Oil. “Our ‘fat’ of choice as opposed to the butter used extensively by our French friends. There are few dishes that do not incorporate a dash of the ol’ Extra Virgin. Olive Oil is linked to a healthy lifestyle as it has a low saturated fat content, comparatively, and is an unmatched flavour when used independently. Ritrovo has its own label of Olive Oil, cold pressed at the Living Waters farm in Paarl, and is an organic product. The liquid gold (which symbolises Joburg) is prized in our kitchen for its versatility & distinct flavour. To be Mediterranean is to take almost everything Extra Virgin!”
• Philippe Wagenfuhrer (Roots at the Forum Homini) – Wild Mushrooms. “First I am a fun guy and not fungi. But I did spend 14 years in Scotland and became a wild mushroom fanatic. They go best with all kinds of protein and compliment wine so very well. Joburg is like wild mushrooms – complex, fun and with something for everyone.”
• Rory Jossel (Koi Restaurant) - Green tea. “Green tea has been used as both a beverage and a method of traditional medicine. This east meets west infusion is a beverage that can be enjoyed throughout the day and with any meal. It is a great accompaniment and an even better way to settle your nerves after a stressful day in Joburg. We have recently added an Asian Tea Room to our restaurant, giving our clients the opportunity to enjoy an even more authentic Asian experience.”
• Coco Reinharz (Sel et Poivre) – Wine. “Wine is so characteristically South African. It features in almost all of the dishes I prepare because it gives them a deep richness and complexity that takes my food to the next level. Joburg is like wine – making up a fundamental part of the South African culture.”
• Jacob Masilo & Junior Molewa (Jazz Maniacs’ at The Soweto Hotel on Freedom Square) – “Morogo (African spinach). When I think “Taste of Joburg” I think of morogo.  It is one of my favorite vegetables and it is such a versatile ingredient.  It grows easily all over the world, is so affordable (we buy our spinach at the Kliptown Market!) and a truly South African ingredient – all South African cultures use spinach from the Afrikaner Spinach with cheesy white sauce and bacon to the Greeks and spinach Phylo Pastry to Nguni cooking of fried spinach, onions and tomatoes as an accompaniment with pap!  Great uncooked in salads too. Spinach is high in vitamins, minerals and low in calories and is also known for its medicinal value in curing of degenerative diseases.  So you see, Popeye was not the only believer in the benefits of plentiful spinach!”
• Cristina Sato (Yamato Japanese Restaurant) – Soya Sauce. “Soya sauce, the choice ingredient for Yamato, is the one ingredient that is used in virtually every dish in Japanese cuisine. Its inception into Japanese culture by Buddhist monks in the 7^th century has seen numerous changes and therefore hundreds of varieties. Soya sauce is what the Japanese call UMAMI, which is literally translated as ‘delicious taste’.”

The Taste of Joburg Festival runs from the 30^th of September to 4^th of October at the Montecasino Outdoor Events Area.

Make sure you don’t miss this year’s event, as we showcase food and drinks that epitomise the “taste” of the city.

This year’s show has lots for you to taste and experience including:

Taste of Joburg offers an amazing array of entertainment features to ensure that the Taste of Joburg visitors participate in every aspect of this ultimate gourmet eating and drinking experience.

 
The Pick n Pay Fresh Living Chefs’ Theatre
A unique opportunity to see Joburg’s top chefs in action on stage, featuring demos, culinary challenges, entertaining tutorials and enlightening Q & A sessions.

The Grolsch Beer Academy
Featuring Beer Master classes with food pairing by a renowned brew master. Following the Academy, your thirstbuds can be quenched in the comfortable and stylish surrounds of the outdoor “Grolsch Beer Experience” area.

The Makro Wine Theatre
Leading wine experts will host the Wine Theatre which will feature a daily programme of wine tastings, tutorials and advice on wine and food pairing.

Taste & Buy Experiential Exhibitors
You’ll discover a mouth watering array of gourmet food suppliers at Taste of Joburg. Browse the stalls and try delicious speciality food and ingredients available to buy and enjoy at home.

The Ultimate Premium Drinks Feature
Experience some of the world’s premium drink brands such as Absolut Vodka, Heineken, Burchells, Vawter and Sarita as they are brought to life in customized relaxation areas within the festival.

Kidz Zone

We haven’t forgotten about kids at this year’s Taste of Joburg Festival. Clamber Club will ensure that the young ones are entertained with a host of activities for all ages. Kids can look forward to face painting, jumping castles, ball ponds, obstacle courses, our very own Jog-the-Frog and loads more fun. With professional entertainers keeping kiddies busy and happy, parents can relax and enjoy the festivities that Taste of Joburg has to offer.

Tickets are available from Computicket. For more information, visit http://www.tasteofjoburg.com

A love affair with wine and food

There have been many interesting love affairs in the world over the course of history. But one that clearly stands out here in Joburg is the huge love affair that Chef Philippe Wagenführer, the patron chef of the Roots Gourmet Restaurant at Forum Homini, based in the Cradle of Humankind, has with wine.

Wagenführer is one of Joburg’s 16 top chefs who will be taking South Africans on an expedition of flavour at this year’s Taste of Joburg Festival, scheduled to take place between 30 September and 4 October 2009 at Montecasino in Fourways, Johannesburg.

To chef Wagenführer, there is nothing more beautiful and alluring than a glass of wine that has been masterfully nurtured from grape to bottle by wine makers who share his passion for one of the oldest drinks on the planet.

“Wine forms part of my DNA,” he says. “Growing up in France I learned to appreciate and understand not only the drink itself, but the process of making it, and the passion that winemakers, quite literally, pour into their product.

“As a chef, I also pour every ounce of passion that I have into the food that I prepare, so it’s easy to see how one can develop an unmistakable love affair with food and wine. And this is why pairing food with wine is such an important part of what I do.”

But Philippe takes it one step further. Where many restaurateurs would decide on a menu and then find a list of wines that will best accompany the dishes on the menu, he firmly believes that wine should be the centre of the dining experience with food as the accompaniment.

“It’s quite unorthodox to many people,” he explains, “but for us here at Roots it makes perfect sense.”

Together with his head chef, Allistaire Lawrence, Philippe work meticulously to craft food based on the flavours and characteristics of the wines that they have both hand-picked from some of South Africa’s top wine estates.

“The challenge we set ourselves with each service is to satisfy South African palates by giving them flavours that they are familiar with, while taking them out of their comfort zones down a path of discovery by paring gourmet food with unbelievably good [and sometimes unknown] wines.

“It’s a total experience and we pay huge attention to even the smallest details, down to the glasses that we serve specific wines in. You’d never pass a parachute off as lingerie, so why use just any wine glass to serve your wine in. Each wine has its own characteristics and the size and shape of the glass will impact your experience,” he says.

That’s not to say that wine appreciation should be convoluted and way above what average South Africans understand about the flavours of food and wine.

Quite on the contrary in fact – Wagenführer is a huge advocate for bringing wine back down to Earth – making the experience of food and wine pairing accessible to even the most inexperienced and inquisitive palate.

“When I read complicated and pompous commentaries on wines it frustrates me to no end. Honestly, who cares about how many adjectives and clever words you can use to describe ‘something that tastes really nice’,” Wagenführer says.

“It scares people away, it makes them feel that they don’t know enough and that they are not good enough to make an educated decision on which wine tastes good with what food, when, really, it’s a purely subjective experience.”

You could say, then, that what Lawrence and Wagenführer sell is trust based on pure passion.

And it seems to be working. Over 240 estates have applied to Roots to be a part of the highly popular 24 wine appreciation evenings that chefs Lawrence and Wagenführer host every year – and this list has been whittled down to 12 estates, which offer, in Wagenführer and Lawrence’s opinions, the best overall value in SA.

At the Taste of Joburg Festival, attendees are able to experience the passion and dedication that goes into producing some of the city’s best food. And chef Wagenführer will be bringing his own brand of wine appreciation for everyone to try.

“Leave your preconceptions at the door when you come in,” he says. “Be ready to throw away the rule book and taste food and wine in a very different way. And prepare to get hooked because there’s no turning back once you experienced something this good,” he concludes.

Sticking to tradition

Ask anyone what it means to stick to tradition and you’ll most likely be told that it means being old-fashioned, boring and predictable.

But if Zara Karmali, the owner and head chef of contemporary Asian fusion restaurant Karma, has anything to do with it, “tradition” could find a new level of respect with people looking for something fresh and exciting.

Karmali is one of 16 chefs who will be strutting their stuff at this year’s Taste of Joburg Festival, where visitors will have the opportunity to sample some of Johannesburg’s best cuisine, prepared by the city’s top chefs, in an informal and fun atmosphere, without punishing the credit card in the process.

“Exotic food has always been the territory that only the brave venture into,” Karmali says. “Until recently, many people have been afraid to venture out of their comfort zones and experience some of the finest flavours that the world has to offer.”

Karmali will be the first to admit that particularly exotic cuisine – like traditional Indian food for example – doesn’t appeal to as wide an audience as, say, more familiar cuisine coming from the Mediterranean.

“But if one were to show a little initiative and incorporate flavours that locals are familiar with, all of a sudden you have a multitude of exciting dishes that local people can relate to and that they aren’t afraid to try out,” she explains.

However, that said, Karmali doesn’t believe in watering down her heritage. After all, it’s the complex mixture of, on average, 10 – 12 herbs and spices in each dish that gives Indian cuisine its unmistakable characteristics.

“But incorporating elements such as avocado, feta cheese and Peppadews – which are most certainly not traditional Indian ingredients – into our dishes has enabled us to produce exotic dishes that lend themselves closely to Indian tradition, but at the same time don’t overwhelm more conservative palates that venture into our restaurants,” she jokes.

“The truth is that Johannesburg has seen a marked increase of interest in the more exotic side of food,” she says, “and this is something we very much want to nurture.”

“You just have to look at the numbers of Indian, Thai, Sushi, Ethiopian and Persian restaurants that are opening up in Joburg to realise that exotic food is not only trendy but also gaining popularity amongst people who are simply after something unbelievably delicious and exciting.”

Karmali strongly believes that this has everything to do with the integrity that comes from sticking to tradition.

After all, it’s the mastery of balancing the intense flavours of spices that makes Asian food what it is. And this is also the motivation that drives her to make exotic Asian food more accessible to a wider audience.

“I don’t want people to be scared away from trying out exotic traditional food – whether it’s eating it at their favourite restaurant or making it at home for that matter,” Karmali says.

“People shouldn’t feel alienated by complex flavours. Flavour is purely subjective and what appeals to one person may not appeal to another, which is why there is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ in cooking a modern take on traditional food.”

This is also why Karma has introduced cooking classes – in order to bring traditional Asian food closer to curious South African palates, and hopefully to stimulate a passion for flavour.

“Above all,” she enthuses, “we hope to dispel the myth that spice equals spicy [hot]. Chilli may be a spice, but not all spice is chilli.

“Tradition doesn’t have to be stale or mystical. And it also doesn’t have to exclude those that are curious to explore outside of their comfort zones,” Karmali continues. “And I’m excited about being able to introduce people to my culture through the flavours that are so famous from the region.”

A dish is only as good as its ingredients

Any chef worth his or her salt would be the first to admit that a dish is only as good as the ingredients used to make it. And one person who knows this all too well is Jacob Moliso, the executive chef at Jazz Maniacs in the Soweto Hotel on Freedom Square.

Jazz Maniacs is not your conventional hotel restaurant. Situated in the heart of Freedom Square in Soweto – with Kliptown and the Walter Sisulu Freedom Museum as a backdrop – the restaurant combines the simple but tasty traditional township food with a touch of class and sophistication.

The restaurant’s signature dish, the Kliptown Combo, which combines steak, wors, pap, chakalaka, mixed veggies and beetroot all beautifully arranged on a plate, is a perfect example of how even the simplest South African favourite can be made to appeal to any palate –local or international.

“For a chef, ingredients are everything,” Jacob says, “and I could not possibly dream of using anything but the best fruit and vegetables in the dishes that I prepare.”

An integral part of township food is a variety of hearty vegetables including carrots, beetroot, potatoes, spinach, cabbage, tomatoes and onions – all of which Jacob and his assistant chefs, Junior Molewa and Sam Lipali, hand-pick on a daily basis at a somewhat unlikely place – the street market around the corner from the hotel.

“I wouldn’t imagine it any other way,” Jacob points out. “The market here in Freedom Square stocks absolutely everything that we need and the quality is streaks ahead of anything you’d find in mainstream grocery stores in town.

“Not to mention the prices here in the market are a lot lower than the prices in the more commercial areas of Joburg, which means that we don’t only control the costs of preparing unbelievably good food, but we can offer dishes that are reasonably priced,” he says.

As Jacob, Junior and Sam roam the street markets in and around Freedom Square, it’s easy to see that they’re no strangers to the store owners – whose elaborate displays of fresh fruit and vegetables add an amazing touch of colour to the streets of Kliptown, which was once an unbelievably depressing place to be during the Apartheid years.

“The variety of vegetables that we have to choose from is always good and we never have to question the quality,” Jacob points out.

“This is because every morning, fresh produce is delivered directly from farmers to the Fresh Produce Market in the Joburg CBD, and is then brought here to Kliptown. It’s easy to see how you can get lost in the rows and rows of vegetable stalls here – it’s like another world,” he says.

Jacob, Junior and Sam all admit that their dishes would not be half as good as they are if the quality of the ingredients were not of a superior quality.

And they’ll be equally quick to admit that there is nothing more embarrassing than having to salvage a dish gone wrong when the ingredients are to blame – because it is essentially their reputations on the line.

To this extent, Jacob says that it’s very important for him and his crew to hand-pick all of their ingredients to ensure that they can “wow” their patrons again and again.

“No chef can make a good dish with bad ingredients. Not even those guys on BBC are THAT good,” Jacob jokes.

“Here at Jazz Maniacs we’re all about using good local produce and supporting our local communities,” comments Lindiwe Sangweni-Siddo, the General Manager of the Soweto Hotel on Freedom Square.

“People think we’re joking when we say that we get all our fruit and vegetables out on the street, but you just cannot match the quality and value for money you get when you buy your produce from a trusted and reliable source.

“We’re truly blessed to have such amazing ingredients, produced locally, available practically on our doorstep,” she adds.

“And as much as our chefs enjoy cooking with these unbelievable ingredients, our patrons also enjoy every bite of our signature township dishes.”

Jacob is one of 16 chefs that will be putting their skills to the test at this year’s Taste of Joburg Festival – which is scheduled to take place 30 September- 4 October at Montecasino Outdoor Event Venue. Tickets are available through Computicket on 083 915 8000 or www.computicket.com. Standard tickets cost R80 and premium tickets cost R170. For more information go to www.tasteofjoburg.com