Ask anyone what it means to stick to tradition and you’ll most likely be told that it means being old-fashioned, boring and predictable.
But if Zara Karmali, the owner and head chef of contemporary Asian fusion restaurant Karma, has anything to do with it, “tradition” could find a new level of respect with people looking for something fresh and exciting.
Karmali is one of 16 chefs who will be strutting their stuff at this year’s Taste of Joburg Festival, where visitors will have the opportunity to sample some of Johannesburg’s best cuisine, prepared by the city’s top chefs, in an informal and fun atmosphere, without punishing the credit card in the process.
“Exotic food has always been the territory that only the brave venture into,” Karmali says. “Until recently, many people have been afraid to venture out of their comfort zones and experience some of the finest flavours that the world has to offer.”
Karmali will be the first to admit that particularly exotic cuisine – like traditional Indian food for example – doesn’t appeal to as wide an audience as, say, more familiar cuisine coming from the Mediterranean.
“But if one were to show a little initiative and incorporate flavours that locals are familiar with, all of a sudden you have a multitude of exciting dishes that local people can relate to and that they aren’t afraid to try out,” she explains.
However, that said, Karmali doesn’t believe in watering down her heritage. After all, it’s the complex mixture of, on average, 10 – 12 herbs and spices in each dish that gives Indian cuisine its unmistakable characteristics.
“But incorporating elements such as avocado, feta cheese and Peppadews – which are most certainly not traditional Indian ingredients – into our dishes has enabled us to produce exotic dishes that lend themselves closely to Indian tradition, but at the same time don’t overwhelm more conservative palates that venture into our restaurants,” she jokes.
“The truth is that Johannesburg has seen a marked increase of interest in the more exotic side of food,” she says, “and this is something we very much want to nurture.”
“You just have to look at the numbers of Indian, Thai, Sushi, Ethiopian and Persian restaurants that are opening up in Joburg to realise that exotic food is not only trendy but also gaining popularity amongst people who are simply after something unbelievably delicious and exciting.”
Karmali strongly believes that this has everything to do with the integrity that comes from sticking to tradition.
After all, it’s the mastery of balancing the intense flavours of spices that makes Asian food what it is. And this is also the motivation that drives her to make exotic Asian food more accessible to a wider audience.
“I don’t want people to be scared away from trying out exotic traditional food – whether it’s eating it at their favourite restaurant or making it at home for that matter,” Karmali says.
“People shouldn’t feel alienated by complex flavours. Flavour is purely subjective and what appeals to one person may not appeal to another, which is why there is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ in cooking a modern take on traditional food.”
This is also why Karma has introduced cooking classes – in order to bring traditional Asian food closer to curious South African palates, and hopefully to stimulate a passion for flavour.
“Above all,” she enthuses, “we hope to dispel the myth that spice equals spicy [hot]. Chilli may be a spice, but not all spice is chilli.
“Tradition doesn’t have to be stale or mystical. And it also doesn’t have to exclude those that are curious to explore outside of their comfort zones,” Karmali continues. “And I’m excited about being able to introduce people to my culture through the flavours that are so famous from the region.”
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