There have been many interesting love affairs in the world over the course of history. But one that clearly stands out here in Joburg is the huge love affair that Chef Philippe Wagenführer, the patron chef of the Roots Gourmet Restaurant at Forum Homini, based in the Cradle of Humankind, has with wine.
Wagenführer is one of Joburg’s 16 top chefs who will be taking South Africans on an expedition of flavour at this year’s Taste of Joburg Festival, scheduled to take place between 30 September and 4 October 2009 at Montecasino in Fourways, Johannesburg.
To chef Wagenführer, there is nothing more beautiful and alluring than a glass of wine that has been masterfully nurtured from grape to bottle by wine makers who share his passion for one of the oldest drinks on the planet.
“Wine forms part of my DNA,” he says. “Growing up in France I learned to appreciate and understand not only the drink itself, but the process of making it, and the passion that winemakers, quite literally, pour into their product.
“As a chef, I also pour every ounce of passion that I have into the food that I prepare, so it’s easy to see how one can develop an unmistakable love affair with food and wine. And this is why pairing food with wine is such an important part of what I do.”
But Philippe takes it one step further. Where many restaurateurs would decide on a menu and then find a list of wines that will best accompany the dishes on the menu, he firmly believes that wine should be the centre of the dining experience with food as the accompaniment.
“It’s quite unorthodox to many people,” he explains, “but for us here at Roots it makes perfect sense.”
Together with his head chef, Allistaire Lawrence, Philippe work meticulously to craft food based on the flavours and characteristics of the wines that they have both hand-picked from some of South Africa’s top wine estates.
“The challenge we set ourselves with each service is to satisfy South African palates by giving them flavours that they are familiar with, while taking them out of their comfort zones down a path of discovery by paring gourmet food with unbelievably good [and sometimes unknown] wines.
“It’s a total experience and we pay huge attention to even the smallest details, down to the glasses that we serve specific wines in. You’d never pass a parachute off as lingerie, so why use just any wine glass to serve your wine in. Each wine has its own characteristics and the size and shape of the glass will impact your experience,” he says.
That’s not to say that wine appreciation should be convoluted and way above what average South Africans understand about the flavours of food and wine.
Quite on the contrary in fact – Wagenführer is a huge advocate for bringing wine back down to Earth – making the experience of food and wine pairing accessible to even the most inexperienced and inquisitive palate.
“When I read complicated and pompous commentaries on wines it frustrates me to no end. Honestly, who cares about how many adjectives and clever words you can use to describe ‘something that tastes really nice’,” Wagenführer says.
“It scares people away, it makes them feel that they don’t know enough and that they are not good enough to make an educated decision on which wine tastes good with what food, when, really, it’s a purely subjective experience.”
You could say, then, that what Lawrence and Wagenführer sell is trust based on pure passion.
And it seems to be working. Over 240 estates have applied to Roots to be a part of the highly popular 24 wine appreciation evenings that chefs Lawrence and Wagenführer host every year – and this list has been whittled down to 12 estates, which offer, in Wagenführer and Lawrence’s opinions, the best overall value in SA.
At the Taste of Joburg Festival, attendees are able to experience the passion and dedication that goes into producing some of the city’s best food. And chef Wagenführer will be bringing his own brand of wine appreciation for everyone to try.
“Leave your preconceptions at the door when you come in,” he says. “Be ready to throw away the rule book and taste food and wine in a very different way. And prepare to get hooked because there’s no turning back once you experienced something this good,” he concludes.